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The Brand

CHAPTER 12 PT. 1: TRIBAL VERSUS INDIVIDUAL

The synergy between Dr. Martens and youth culture took another fascinating twist around the turn of the century, as the music and subcultural world fragmented into ever-increasing diversity. In terms of youth culture and music, the turn of the new Millennium was, superficially at least, a very confusing and unstructured era. As this new age began, the conventional tribes had retreated somewhat and the cult of the individual was beginning to take prominence. 
 
Music fragmented massively and, to some social and cultural commentators, this splintering led to a dilution of definable genres. However, on the other hand, it could be argued that the potentially limiting parameters of previous generations were now becoming so completely broken down that anyone – musicians, artists, creatives, fans, the general public – was able to pick and mix their influence and style, both musically and sartorially. With this change, Dr. Martens’ place in the spectrum of street style and indeed wider fashion also shifted hugely and, in so doing, expanded massively. 
 

Apocalyptica: one of modern Rock's most innovative and unique bands. Photographed by Ville Akseli Juurikkala.
Apocalyptica: one of modern Rock’s most innovative and unique bands. Photographed by Ville Akseli Juurikkala.
 
 
One genre that enjoyed mashing up a variety of influences was Modern Metal – this often meant that Dr. Martens found its way on to the feet of Metalheads, even though traditionally DM’s has not been the type of footwear that was popular within this genre. The obvious genetic starting point for the seemingly ever-lasting Metalhead tribe was mid-70s Rock bands who grew their hair long and sold out stadiums around the globe fast. They collectively created a genre that is perennially popular, with an ever-expanding number of musical and stylistic variations. 
 
Finnish Rock band Apocalyptica are a fantastic example of mashing up many different styles in a very individual way within the Metal genre. Consisting of three classically trained cellists combined with a drummer, they started out playing Metallica tribute sets, but have since released a number of acclaimed albums of original material, which dips into Metal but also Speed Metal, Thrash, Grunge, and even Middle Eastern influences. They have rightly become one of Metal’s most unique propositions. Cellist Paavo says: ‘At the end of the ’80s I wanted to buy some original DM’s. Unfortunately I did not have enough money to buy real ones, so I bought fake ones. That was a big mistake. Those lasted only a couple of months and then the sole was totally blown away! Somehow I found enough money to buy a real pair of DM’s, the 1461. But again I made a mistake! The size was too small. I used those for three months until I gave them to my friend. He used those for years and was really happy with those magical shoes. Good for him. All these years I have had about six pairs of DM’s. I still have three of them rocking.’ 
 
Mike D'Antonio of Killswitch Engage.
Mike D’Antonio of Killswitch Engage.
 
 
Dr. Martens have often struggled to capture the interest of most Metalheads. However, bands such as Killswitch Engage have been known to wear the boot. Killswitch were categorised by some as ‘Metalcore’ but in fact the band themselves would say they are just playing Rock music. Bassist Mike D’Antonio: ‘I bought my first pair of DM’s in 1988 and they are still sitting in my closet! I wore those Docs for everything as a kid, hanging out, Hardcore shows, even prom! They were the classic black, yellow-stitched shoes. So broken in, they feel like slippers. Best of all, the older they get, the sweeter they look!’.