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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK MENS: AW17

New York Fashion Week is upon us and, as is tradition, Dr. Martens have been working with some of the most exciting up-and-coming sartorial talent. DM’s have always been used a a way of expressing who you are to the world, generations of our wearers have been showing their personal style in our shoes and boots, and the runway is no different. We work with and nurture design talent who then use Dr. Martens to portray their stylistic points of view. Read on to see who we’ve been collaborating with this season…

ASSEMBLY

Founded by former gallerist Greg Armas in 2008 and 2015, Assembly focuses on an emphasis on craft and design as an ethos, regardless of trend. This is displayed through their latest collection of which was held in an intimate environment, supported by a live musical performance.

THE 60 SECOND INTERVIEW: ASSEMBLY

Whats been the biggest fashion moment of your life so far?
When my mother let me where my pyjama shirt to school with my jeans; it meant everything. Working with Anna Wintour through the Vogue Fashion Fund was exciting but the no pyjama shirt no Anna.

How do you describe your work’s aesthetic?
Quiet authority, discrete luxury. Variations on a uniform concept.

Why did you want to include Dr. Martens in your show?
I grew up in Doc’s, my first pair were the bright blue 3 hole Gibson shoes, so there’s a sentiment for me personally. Also with Assembly we are always looking for authenticity and the heritage of Dr. Martens is so strong.

What’s the soundtrack to your life right now?
I love music. Don Cherry, Albert Ayler, The Minutemen, Rhythm & Sound, Spaceman 3, Boards of Canada, Jamie XX.

How do you relax?
When I can, I go to Mexico. The best brain break. On the daily, I actually talk small walks and meditate.

How do you wear your Doc’s?
Slipped on and worn in. I love the patent leather Penton we used for our runway shows, patent breaks in so nicely.

What new fashion trend do you love/hate?
I love the simplicity now, lots of basic shapes and colors and black and white combinations.

If you could walk in someone else’s shoes for a day, who would it be?
An ancient pharaoh, so sandals I guess, but I’m more of a shoe guy really..

Assembly designer.
Assembly designer.

Check out Assembly on their website, Facebook and Instagram.

LORIS DIRAN

Loris Diran designs reflect “a conversation between Sartorial and Street-wear”, homing on a balance of the two. This is translated through his footwear choices, including a mix of both refined and rebellious DM’s.

THE 60 SECOND INTERVIEW: LORIS DIRAN

Whats been the biggest fashion moment of your life so far?
When we were invited to show on the Runways of Hong Kong by their Trade commission. It was in the Hong Kong Convention Hall and seated 1200 people. The special effects were ‘off da hook’. Especially when the models came out of a virtual sand storm onto the runway. Fierce!

How do you describe your work’s aesthetic?
I always refer to our aesthetic as “a conversation between Sartorial and Street-wear”. Its my lifestyle: I love an immaculately made suit with a modern silhouette and I love to throw it together with hoodies, combat boots and biker accessories. It takes me from New York to Paris to China and everyone seems to understand the look. It has become the universal fashion message.

Why did you want to include Dr. Martens in your show?
I have been wearing Dr. Martens ever since my teenage life as an inner city youth. Some of my favorite memories include running into ‘TRASH AND VAUDEVILLE’ in the East Village to pick my newest purchase every season. I’d save up and dream of how cool they would look and how I’d serve them up in my wardrobe. They are simply what all rockers wore in the 70’s and 80’s. It’s fitting that they never went away and they are constantly imitated: They are simply the most relevant.

What’s the soundtrack to your life right now?
I love my friend’s Edgy and Delilah’s band, ‘‪THE LAST INTERNATIONALE‬‬‬’ on SONY music…. They are flawless and speak to our current times. I also love listening to Charles Aznazour from France. His body of work is truly story telling before Bruce.

How do you relax?
My 5 lb. Pom, Gypsy, keeps me calm at all times that I am with her and the long walks she insists on keep me grounded and aware of the simple pleasures of life. Everyone should have a dog. There would be less need for anti-depressants.

How do you wear your Doc’s?
With leggings and a wrap skirt, skinny jeans, or with rolled up drop crotch wool trousers with elongated cashmere knits or with a long frock coat.

What new fashion trend do you love/hate?
I love the volume of the current 80s trend and I hate the trend towards ‘normal’ models on the runway. I believe in the ‘Theatro de Mode’… I want the fantasy on the runway…. or the ultimate look. There is more than enough time for ‘normal’ or ‘real’.

If you could walk in someone else’s shoes for a day, who would it be?
LORIS DIRAN, the designer, and Loris Diran, the human, are enough for me, Thanks!

Loris Diran.
Loris Diran.

Check out Loris Diran on their website, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

R.SWIADER

LA based menswear brand R.SWIADER continued to inject ease into the perfect uniform ‘for all citizens of the world’ through his debut collection. The collection mixed Californian cool with Brit-punk non-utilitarian movement, making Dr. Martens the perfect shoe to finish off all looks.

THE 60 SECOND INTERVIEW: R. SWIADER

Whats been the biggest fashion moment of your life so far?
The biggest fashion moment was seeing a complete stranger wear my clothes. It truly is surreal seeing my clothes worn on people- that to me is probably my favorite fashion moment to date.

How do you describe your work’s aesthetic?
I like to think of R.Swiader as non traditional classics. I like clothes that are easy to wear, fashion forward and make you feel good. I enjoy creating clothes that are unique, beautifully made and give you sense of freedom. Some of my clothes look pretty simple from the outside, but when you look on the inside of the garment you’ll see that’s were all of the details are hidden. We spend a lot of time developing each piece and pay special attention to details and finishings. I like little secrets in my clothes- I think it makes you feel great when you wear something that’s special because at the end of the day isn’t that the most important thing in fashion?

Why did you want to include Dr. Martens in your show?
I have always been a huge fan of Dr. Martens, I’v been wearing them since I was a teenage boy living in Poland. Since this is my first New York Fashion Week presentation I wanted to make a statement and make sure the message of the brand was clear. Punk and my eastern block upbringing had a big influence on this collection and Dr.Martens is perfect to finish our Fall 17 look. I’m especially into the classic shape of 1460 and 1461 with the contrast stitching detail because it blends so well with the R.Swiader look this season.

What’s the soundtrack to your life right now?
My soundtrack is pretty eclectic but these days it’s all about Lou Reed, The Cure, Patti Smith and new The XX album. For the presentation we have an artist playing all Lou Reed songs acoustic style on a ukulele- I’m very excited for this!

How do you relax?
I’m a typical New Yorker- always on the run, so relaxing is pretty challenging for me. One of my guilty pleasures is taking long baths, which I find very relaxing. I also find hanging out with my friends over margaritas and walking around Brooklyn with my dog Roscoe relaxing.

How do you wear your Doc’s?
All day – every day! I pretty much wear my low monos with most of my clothes. The R.Swiader black pleated trouser with one of our white shirts has become a uniform for me and the classic doc’s are perfect for my look. I love a white sock with my doc’s and I usually change the laces to white for that extra detail.

What new fashion trend do you love/hate?
I really don’t like trends in general. I appreciate when people have their individual looks going on and it’s nice when they put a personal twist on a trend. With that said, I do like seeing all the cool guys around Brooklyn in their light denim with raw edge hems- It’s cool looking. Recently I saw a lot of long, oversized coats on the streets of Paris, which I was really into. There was one in particular that has stuck in my memory, it was made out of textured brown and orange tweed wool- it was so chic!

If you could walk in someone else’s shoes for a day, who would it be?
Well hopefully someone who had doc’s on… I would choose to be David Bowie for a day because I’m in love with his music and over the top outfits- so liberating! We need more originality and freedom in today’s world!

R.SWIADER AW17 Collection. Photo by Joanna Totolici.
R.SWIADER AW17 Collection. Photo by Joanna Totolici.

 

R.SWIADER AW17 Collection. Photo by John Arsenault.
R.SWIADER AW17 Collection. Photo by John Arsenault.

 

R.SWIADER AW17 Collection. Photo by John Arsenault.
R.SWIADER AW17 Collection featuring the 1460 boot and 1461 shoe. Photo by John Arsenault.

Check out R.SWIADER on their website, Facebook, and Instagram.

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